Thursday, March 5, 2026

Waitangi (Bay of Islands) eclipsing cultures on the Weeping River, NZ March 3 Day 60

At 2:20 in the morning I woke up to this lunar eclipse, where the earth's shadow made the moon "disappear", an ominous omen of the British eclipsing indigenous population.



Māori (commoner) warrior canoe ride, double pontoon canoes--a 5000 yr old tradition of catamarans and navigating by the stars.  I enjoyed this Māori owned and operated cultural experience where the local chief explained how the various tribes were perceived as different as different counties in Europe.



We paddled up the Waitangi (Weeping) River with traditional Māori canoe commands after  learning about Māori spirituality of the four gods: sky, earth, water and wind and their children.  Thankfully, we were aided by a special warrior paddle, Yamaha! 

After I visited the most important historic site in New Zealand, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds with the Treaty House through the signing of the Declaration of Independence, He Whakaputanga o te Rangatiratanga o Nu Tireni, in 1835 and the Treaty of Waitangi and Te Tiriti o Waitangi in 1840 where the British and Māori people agreed to live together as partners in an independent nation.  Of course, the two documents were translated differently--every translation is indeed interpretation and as usual the indigenous people get the short end of the treaty stick by the colonialists!


                       




Monday, March 2, 2026

Auckland, NZ March 1-2 Days 58-59 Purim delight and LHR reunion

Return to Auckland after 44 years since my Student pulpit and my jubilee visit 18 years ago.  

Our first day was a bonus day to void the cyclone over Tonga and it was a 38k step great day  We took the ferry over to the dormant volcano Rangitoto for our scenic harbor tour and hike and then over to quant Devenport where we combed the thrift "Opp"(ortunity shops.  Back in Auckland  we went to the gorgeous Auckland Art Gallery complete with contemporary Polynesian art pieces and then over to Albert Park and  University of Auckland O(rientation)  week with a happenstance visit to the notable Jewish macher, Alfred Nathan's House.


At night we went over to the Auckland Hebrew Congregation for Purim services at their new campus in suburban Remuera at a former private girls' school.  The rabbi and shaliach read the whole megillah as we enjoyed hamantaschen and fellowship form visitors from Papeete to our cruise ship.  We saw a small but determined congregation dress up and shake home made groggers.  The congregation continues.  Membership includes AHC 300 people,  Beth Shalom 100 units, 2 Chabads with 50 each totally about 3,000 in Auckland and about 5,000 in NZ out of a total of five million people.


Naomi Johnson picked us up at the pier after we watched a Maori welcome ceremony and whisked us away to a forest bath in a suburban hidden nature area on the North Shore, Kauri Glen Reserve, to experience stately Kauri trees and fauna after carefully scrubbing our feet at the compulsory disinfection stations.


LHR stands for "Little Hairy Rabbi" as Gordon Stern called me remarking on my huge Jewfro and mustache (see below).  Over a yummy dairy lunch complete with hamantaschen at the Kosher Deli, we reminisced about Temple life then and now with L-R Jill and John Pesaro, Chris and Arthur Berman and Naomi Johnson who like me have aged as the congregation has and celebrates 70 years of service.



Temple Beth Shalom,180 Manaku Road, Epsom then and now:




Then 1982          Today 2026

                                                             

Thursday, February 26, 2026

Carpe Diem at the International Date Line (Friday 27th) Day 0

Friday the 27th didn't exist on our ship as we crossed the International Date Line.   But Shabbat services must go on, so after a short meeting of the Synagogue at Sea Ritual Committee everyone agreed that Thursday night would be better than Saturday night to celebrate Shabbat.  My philosophy professor at HUC-JIR Dr Alvin Reines (who wrote Polydoxy) always said, you should celebrate shabbat on any day that was convenient for you.  He was right!  We'll gain back the day when we cross back from Japan to Alaska and get another day.  I recall two years ago traveling back from Japan enroute to Hawaii  where we observed two days of Yom Kippur--the Ritual Committee wisely decided to only observe the first day lest we have an incredibly slow fast!


Truly time is not only relative but plastic!

Monday, February 23, 2026

Bora Bora, French Polynesia "and a rooster in a breadfruit tree" 2/23/26 Day 51

Finally!  On the 2023 Volendam "Bali Cha'i, Tales of the South Pacific." cruise, we awoke at five in the morning to catch a glimpse of the cloud covered eerie Bora Bora that the captain swung by as a consolation for not docking. At last, we made it to the insanely gorgeous Bora Bora!


After visiting the Roman Catholic church with Tahitian disciples, we headed out for a lagoon snorkeling excursion on an island tour.


We saw a rainbow of tropical fish in a coral garden, including: one stingray, two giant mantas, three parrotfish, four butterflyfish, five clownfish, six damselfish, seven surgeonfish, eight angelfish, nine needlefish, ten reef fish, eleven eagle rays,  twelve black tip reef sharks and a rooster in a breadfruit tree!  



Our two guides blessed us with humor calling our fishing boat the Titanic and telling shark jokes as we nervously swam with the blacktip reef sharks (on a shore excursion, one congregant was bit and had a dozen stiches!).  They told us what its like to live on a small island on ten thousand where they know everyone and have difficulty dating  They shared with a smile  that before we're married we have to ask our grandpa, "Hey, are we related?"

They told us that their island Vavau as it is known among locals was misnamed Bora Bora from the island chief telling people to clap when Captain Cook arrived, saying Pora, Pora, (Clap, Clap).  But maybe the joke was on us, as Pora Pora is customarily translated as "first born" as it was the first of the volcanic archipelago or the legends describing this as the first island to rise when supreme god Taaroa, fished it out of the waters after the mythical creation of Havai'i, now known as Raiatea which we visited a two and a half years ago aboard the Volendam. 









Saturday, February 21, 2026

A pearl in the surf, Mo'orea, Tahiti 2/22/26 Day 50

Mo'orea means yellow lizard in Tahitian, but it is really a black pearl in the surf.

We hitch hiked to a public beach for snorkeling and then walked to the stunning Hilton Resort for a day of snorkeling the pantheon of underwater colors underneath bungalows complete with glass bottomed coffee tables.  

The warmth of the people matched the warm turquoise waters.




Friday, February 20, 2026

Oh la la! Papeete, Tahiti 2/21/26 Day 49

Papeete greetings with the ukulele greeting band and coral ocean promenade,  after visiting the Marche municipal market brimming with stunning flowers and fragrant fruits 





We cooled off at the Tahiti Hilton resort pool thanks to white privilege and dined on a 50 cent French baguette bread with French brie  cheese for lunch.  

We walked around the charming French colonial architecture and visited the Robert Wan Pearl Museum. 


Chinese lunar year of the Horse decorations beckoned us at the Polynesian parliament buildings








Robert Wan Pearl Museum was a cool pearl of a visit on a hot tropical day.

We finished our day admiring the glorious sunsets, aromatic roulettes (food trucks) and energetic ukulele bands after the local Tahitian dance show onboard.

Wednesday, February 18, 2026

Bountyful Legacy on Pitcairn Island 2/18/26 Day 46

It is said that each remake gets more accurate 1935, 1962 and 1984.  I watched each of them on our ship in preparation for our fateful visit.   As a piece of entertainment, the '35 version is probably my favorite. For sheer spectacle, the '62 version.  From a dramatic and historical perspective, I think the '84 version is the best.


The Mutiny on the Bounty occurred in the Pacific Ocean on 28 April 1789. Disaffected crewmen, led by acting-Lieutenant Fletcher Christian, seized control of HMS Bounty from the captain, Lieutenant William Bligh, and set him and eighteen loyalists adrift in the ship's open launch.

Visiting cruise ships often arrange for a local lecture and Pitcairn Curio & Craft Market to be held on board--and as this was the first visit by the Volendam, an exchange of plaques and foodstuffs!  our visit blew me away from the eclectic sweet inhabitants who spent months preparing for our visit by bringing the purest honey on earth, picturesque philatelies, and postcards that will be delivered after we return when the New Zealand supply ship arrives in May to collect the mail.


I loved getting to hear the stories of the islanders, beginning of course, with the recently reelected mayor, Shawn Christian, He is a patrilineal great-great-great-great-great-grandson of Fletcher Christian. He graciously agreed to my request for his autograph as head of state for the 44 citizens of the smallest democracy in the world! Only later did I learn that he previously served a prison sentence after being convicted of child rape. Oy, the legacy of a band of mutineers!




The policewoman (the entire police department!) which includes a visiting NZ constable, does not carry a gun or a taser as she knows everyone and there is no where for anyone to hide on the island.  The jail is used for storage as it is not needed for prisoners.  She practices community policing.  I wonder how her 25 years of service were affected by the sordid rape trial and what it's like to police an isle whose legacy was mutiny on the Bounty and mass killings on Pitcairn in the 18th century and child rapes in the 21st?  No we know why there are no children on the island and the school was closed as the children were sent to NZ for their education--and protection!  

Gabe noticed that the $5000 of food and essentials donated by HALL and transferred to the longboat named Moss contained many cases of bottles which is indeed strange for a community that is 100% Seventh Day Adventist which avows drinking.  This is a case of historical or should I say hysterical fiction which prompts many disturbing questions as we leave the rocky shores.