El Fin del Mundo: Ushuaia, Argentina 2/5/26 Day 32

At the end of the world, in the world's most Southern city of Ushuaia, where the Pan American highway, a 19,000-mile network of roads from Alaska to Argentina ends.

one finds a glorious national park, Tierra del Fuego, a busy touristy port,  

and mixed monuments to lost causes, such as the desaparecidos (disappeared) [The desaparecidos (disappeared) in Argentina refers to an estimated 30,000 people abducted, tortured, and killed by the state during the last civic-military dictatorship (1976–1983) and preceding years. Victims were held in secret detention centers, often killed via "death flights," as part of a systematic campaign against perceived political opponents] and the Falklands Islands debacle in 1982.

We've seen the "Las Malvinas son Argentinas" banners issued by the goverment in each port, but here in the epic center of the war, we saw the monument to the hapless fallen heroes. 

Memory, Truth and Justice  indeed!

We need a waterfall of reality gushing from the five alpine glaciers in the Chilean "Glacier Alley" to wash away these pariotic distortions

Go with the [Ice] Flow Antarctic Experience 1/29-2/1 2026 Days 26-29

 

I wasn't sure what to expect at the bottom of the world.  All we had was the goofy photo taken from a travel show where I grabbed a can of bear repellant.  Little did I know that there were bears in the Arctic (Ursua Major and Minor), but no bears in the Antarctic, just a plethora of penguins, whales, seals and birds!  While the Arctic is mostly ocean, the Antartctic is a massive continent of rock and ice,  1 1/2 times the size of the United States, with 90 per cent of the world's ice and 70 per cent of the world's  fresh water.

Our first day od the Antarctic Experience was fog and sleet, but we manged to see a few penguins porporsing and a humpback whale breaching between breaks in the mist, but the rest of our adventures had to be postponed, or as our Cruise Director, Erin, said, "Go with the [ice] flow"

The next day brought fabulous sights of thousands of gentoo penguins at the rookery at Caverville Island and "Titantic Moments"

Highlights included passing by the abandoned Argentinan researach station Melchoir studded with Penguins, sea lions and albarossess.  And dining in the Lido while watching penguins swim like dolphins and whales working together utitilizing bubble tactics to round up krill. And taking an eveing stroll at 11 pm to watch the slow sunset in the long summer of daylight afte experiencing rain, sleet, fog and snow--all in one day.

Another titantic moment after stunning Paradise Bay with a plethora of marine life with a glassy reflective cruise amidst bergy bits.

And in the midst of our Tu B'shvat t (Jewish arbor Day) mini seder, having to pause for a photo opp of the Palmer US Antarctic station between our four cups of wine--just another go with the [ice] flow as ice conditions delayed our visit until evening.

Flexiblity, patience, and persistence are keys to Antarctic adventures.  Originally, I was diaappointed not to have boots on the ground on my seventh continuent, but now appreciate the majesty and fragility and the lesser impact of our Antarctic experience experience of sailing the Antarctic Peninusla.  I am pround to be inducted into the order of the Red Nose and swimming [in the Lido pool] in the Antarctic Ocean.

As Ernest Shakleton opined,  "Better to be a live donkey than a dead lion." In 2022 The Edurance was found by a submersable drone https://endurance22.org/.  They went with the flow, just as Skakletone did as we retraced their epic steps!

"Long live the King Penguin" or "The King Penguin and I" Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands 1/27/26 Day 24

 

In this isolated and windswept archipelago of the Falkland Islands at the tip of the Southern Ocean, we spent the day marching with king penguins with their newly hatched chicks, gentle gentoos, and burrowing magellanic penguins.  We wondered in awe and tears as we watched these majestic birds stand together against the harsh elements and hungry Turkey vultures waiting on their wings.  In numbers there is safety.  

During the two hour 4X4 convoy ride over the peat moss, our driver, Toni, shared how we drive together just in case one vehicle gets stuck--the others can help them out with a tow rope.  Similarly if one gets sick or has a tragedy, everyone comes together to help out with a charity event.  We need in the one another.  Truly birds of a feather flock together!

Moving to Montevideo, Uruguay 1/24/26 Day 21

 

Uruguay as the Switzerland of South America?  You bet!  Whether it was 97% of energy derived from renewables, a progressive social welfare state with free health care and education, low crime, clean streets, and since 1919 -- the separation of church and state where Christmas is "Family Day" and Easter Week is "Tourism Week"  No wonder the third largest Jewish community in South America is thriving with Jews making up about one per cent of the population and are mostly secular like the general population.  Instead of Catholicism, the thirty thousand Jews are cultural Zionists belonging to a myriad of youth movements which foster deep connections with Israel.

The "Meeting of Peoples" (or El Abrazo de los Pueblos) is a sculpture in the old Jewish neighborhood in Montevideo created by artist Nora Kimelman who cried when her monument was faced on October 10th 2023 by leftist anarchists in support of Palestine.  The sculpture represents the embrace between the Uruguayan people and Jewish immigrants, highlighting themes of integration and community.  It is part of the broader, rich Jewish cultural landscape in Montevideo, often explored alongside other landmarks like the Memorial al Holocausto del Pueblo Judio (Holocaust Memorial of the Jewish People) located in Punta Carretas n the Rambla overlooking the River Platte.

Ellie Wiesel wrote that we must move beyond sadness to hope.  I hope I never have to move as a refugee as my ancestors did from Eastern Europe, but if I did have to move from North America, I'm moving to Montevideo!

All you need is love 1/23/26 Day 19 Buenos Aries

Heart rendering.  The twin sites of Buenos Aries suicide truck bombings by Hezbollah in 1990s: the 1992 Israeli Embassy bombing, killing 29, and the devastating 1994 AMIA Jewish Community Center bombing, killing 85 and injuring over 300, making it the deadliest terror attack in Argentine history.  Now I understand in my gut the obsession with security at South American Jewish institutions. 

And all this on the Australian National day of Mourning commemorating the 15 victims of the Bondi Beach terror attack. The Prime Minister’s office has named the commemoration: Light will win – a gathering of unity and remembrance. There will be a nationwide minute of silence at 7:01 PM. Australia commemorates the terrible day of 14 December, the first night of Hanukkah, while knowing that antisemitism is not new and unlikely to go away.  The recent burning of the oldest synagogue in Mississippi in Jackson is another reminder that hate against Jews grows beyond words to actions. 

I wish all you need was love is enough to end these antisemitic horrors.

The Mano Menorah in Punta del Este, Uruguay 1/21/26 Day 18

Most famously Mario Irarrázabal's "La Mano" (The Hand) (19820 on Brava Beach in Punta del Este, Uruguay, depict a giant hand emerging from sand or earth, symbolizing human vulnerability, connection to nature, and the power of the sea.  Five fingers pointing up from the sand are indeed a powerful symbol, but nothing compared to the eight candles (plus the shamash servant) pointing up to illuminate the darkness at the darkest time of the year.  Taken together, we need all hands on deck to bring light into the world with one candle lighting another realizing the miracle of creating additional light without diminishing the impact of each individual.  Let there be light!

The Emperor's Bar Mitsva from Petropolis to San Francisco 1/18/26 Day 15

 Literally a breath of fresh air as we took a day tour from hot and humid  Rio to the lush and cool mountains 800 meters above sea level to visit Petropolis, the only European capital of an empire outside of Europe, the summertime home and capital of Portuguese emperor Dom Pedro II who reigned form 1831 to 1889.  While visiting his former palace, now the Imperial Museum, we saw his calligraphy in various languages including Hebrew.  On his world travels, he loved to visit synagogues, just like we do (see below at the Sinagoga Israelita Brasileira 1949) to have an aliya and read Torah.  According to the San Francisco Chronicle April 29, 1876,  Dom Pedro read selections from Genesis perfectly to the congregation on his American visit in 1876.  He was truly an example of a righteous gentile and inspiration for me to continue to welcome both Jews and non Jews into our Synagogue at Sea, Judaic excursions in Latin America with Turismo Judaico, and my well attended Jewish Geography series lectures.  Truly we need magnanimous leaders in this challenging times today!