Bali Chailights Berachot Blessings for Bali
Bali Chai? Jewish Indonesia? ShalOHM! The tropical paradise of Bali is called the "Island of the thousand temples". I went to find out if there was room for one more temple, a progressive Jewish one with the support of the WUPJ. My wife, Hilary and I along with our son, Jonah, volunteered to help seed a new WUPJ congregation there in 2016. Bali is a unique place in Indonesia, an immense archipelago of 18000 islands. While Indonesia has the largest Muslim population in the world, 240 million people, rapidly growing Bali, is predominately Hindu, with just over four million inhabitants.
The tentative havura that has been meeting each Friday and holidays for dinner and blessings now wanted to host its first High Holdays service and so Kehilat B'nei Hof of Bali (Congregation Bali Surfers) came ashore in 5777. Who are the Jews of Bali? Many are foreigners who have chosen to live in Bali, permanently or for a while, some do business, others are retirees. Many are tourists coming for vacation reveling in the surf of beaches, the serenity of rice paddies, the grandeur of volcanoes and the spirituality of temples that were featured so enticingly in "Eat, Pray, Love" (or, as I whimsically renamed the Jewish version, "Nosh, Daven, Shtup"). These ex-pats (almost all of whom speak English) come from all corners of the world including Europe, the Americas, as well as nearby Australia and New Zealand. There are noticeably fewer Israelis than we usually encounter on our travels as they must possess dual nationality, as Indonesia does not formally recognize Israel. Congregational leaders guestimate that there are about 500 Jews in Bali plus tourists. The challenge was how to get the word out, as Judaism is not one of the six official religions. Indeed, until recently, practicing Judaism was illegal and subject to imprisonment. Although still not officially recognized or 'legal", we learned that last year at seder were two Indonesian parliamentarians. We relied on the "Bali miracle" also known as word of mouth using social media from expats, restaurant customers who hear Jewish music playing and inquire, and the WUPJ sister congregations in Singapore and Australia who directed congregants our way. A simple congregation website was deemed too dangerous to use. For many years Liat (who requested we not use her last name due to security), who owns several vegan restaurants throughout the island, organizes most of the Jewish holidays, from Tishri holidays to Purim, Pesach, and others. She, along with Serge, the patriarch of the community, a Parisian and proud member of Paris' progressive MJLF congregation, who lives several months in Bali, told me that around 100 people join them every year for an "animated" Seder, bringing the matza from Jerusalem and the Kosher lePesach wine from Paris and creating original Balinese Hagadot.
At yom tov services we had Jews from every continent except Antarctica. We were barefoot, in a festively decorated converted dance studio in Seminyak. White silk curtains and palm Balinese pendants adorned the walls. One Israeli dressed in a bathing suit and a t-shirt came complete with a surf board. We had 75 for erev Rosh Hashana dinner, 20 for pre kol nidre dinner and 15 for break fast, but some Israelis (not used to progressive Judaism, presumably) left during chanting of kol nidrei. Many attendees were intermarried. There were a handful of secular Moslems ("Muslim marranos") on spiritual quests. Jewish life began with the colonization of Indonesia as the Dutch East Indies and with them came Spanish Portuguese Jews fleeing the expulsion of 1492. While there are some descendents of these colonial Jews on other islands, Bali is a new Jewish frontier of spirituality. As we prayed throughout the day I noticed the Hindu staff lighting incense with the customary offerings to house spirits., reminding me of the ancient daily offerings in Temple times.
Late on Rosh Hashana I led Tashlich on the Indian ocean beach at sunset. The words of "Eli Eli's" "sand and the sea, the rush of the waters..." came alive and were followed by a stirring Leonard Cohen's Hallelujah.
We were blessed with an amazing soloist, Dan Kohane, who had served as a songleader at a Reform shul, Temple Rodeh Torah in Marlboro NJ. He was in Bali on an Indonesian fellowship to study gamelan (Indonesian gong orchestra). Not only did he play piano and guitar, but he taught his Polish friend "Haskiveinu" and performed a lovely duet anthem. We practiced Jewish Mediation before each service and dined with sumptuous vegan cuisine from our hostess, Liat. On Yom Kippur afternoon we had a workshop on the shofar, where challenging questions were raised including whether the horn itself was a result of cruelty to animals. These sensitivities were discussed as many were in town to participate in the Bali Vegan Festival, organized by our hostess and held over shabbat shuva.
One family journeyed an hour for each service with their 14 year old son and 16 year old daughter, arriving an hour early for each service. They had never had a bar or bat mitsvah, but were impressed by the warm and welcoming hospitality. Their enthusiasm and the community's openness to their spiritual journey had a huge impact on these two teens. A month later when Rabbi Alfred arrived for a shabbaton with his young adult group, they met to set a date and begin a long distance course of study!
This year, for the first time, there was a choice between Chabad and a liberal service. Shortly before we arrived we learned that the unofficial Chabad Spirit in Bali would be closing down as there was not enough interest. When they learned that there was a liberal service planned for the high holidays they delayed their departure until after the Tishrei holidays. Many Israeli Jews out of habit or "orthodox authenticity" chose to to attend Chabad for one final time. Liat, Serge, and B'nei Hof continue weekly shabbat dinners, host special shabbatonim with Rabbi Alfred of the United Hebrew Congregation of Singapore, and serve as a Jewish voice proudly affirming Bali Chai! Our deep gratitude to the WUPJ and it visionary leadership, Rabbi Daniel Freelander, Rabbi Nathan Alfred of UHC Singapore, Rabbi Joe Black and Steve Stark of Temple Emanuel Denver who graciously donated the machzorim, soloist extraordinaire, Dan Kohane, and most of all gracious hostess, Liat and organizer/secretary, Serge. Termiah kasih--toda raba!
People wanting to visit the progressive Jewish community in Bali can email bneihofbali@gmail.com for events and venues.
